The Galata Tower is one of the icons of the Istanbul monument landscape. Standing proudly over the European side, across the Golden Horn from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sofia, it’s impossible to miss and even more beautiful up close. Partially because of the history, and partially because of the modern, colorful streets that line its side roads. (Which of course makes it an Instagram hotspot).
On one said colorful street, this past trip we decided to enjoy a colorful lunch at the Rose Papillon.
So, you imagine European-style buildings with their bright oranges, greens, and blues. Now imagine a pink café tucked in between endless dessert shops. There are outdoor tables and chairs for pristine views of the tower while dining and a quaint menu perfect for lunch. That’s Rose Papillon.
The menu here is interesting because, while small, it very clearly tries to catering to a Western light lunch. Turkey is full of rich, heavy, and incredibly delicious foods. After days or weeks, seeing a Chicken Salad or Cesar as a main and not a mezze is exactly what the body is asking for. Not sure if this is on purpose, or just happens to be, but it’s brilliant when you have a couple of American tourists looking for a break from Kumpir and Pide.
Alas, that’s why we ordered the Chicken Almond Salad:
A bed of shredded lettuce, grilled chicken, raw almonds, tomato, cucumber, carrots, and a light oil-based dressing- we got what we asked for here. This was literally almonds and chicken in a salad bowl. No marinades, no toasting of almonds, no frills. And as disappointing as choosing this salad amongst the vibrant foods of Turkey sounds, is just as disappointing as it tasted.
Maybe I shouldn’t be surprised but I was. Known for their use of spices, Turkish meat usually is incredibly flavorful and can just be served by itself (like kebabs) and stand on their own. This chicken was not that. Barely salted, it couldn’t carry the dish whatsoever. Turkey is also known for their incredible nuts, which are so good vendors offer you to try them for free throughout the streets, knowing with one taste you’ll want more. This was not the case. Extra bland and almost random to be thrown into the salad without some sort of slivering or toasting at least.
The remaining veggies were fine. Shredded lettuce tastes like what shredded lettuce always does. The tomatoes, carrots, and cucumbers were ripe and vibrant (and vegetables are another highlight of Turkish cuisine). The dressing almost non-existent, could have been the saving Grace but no such luck here. A drizzle of olive oil and splash of lemon got lost in the rest of the ingredients and ended up just feeling… wet?
So, I guess we got what we asked for- an incredibly healthy salad to cleanse the body. But when having something not local, you have to balance it with something more authentic. So I added the Tavuk şote:
Tavuk Şote, or “Chicken Sauté,” is a Turkish dish that typically features chicken pieces sautéed with vegetables like onions, bell peppers, and tomatoes. Seasoned with spices like paprika, black pepper, and sometimes cumin, it is a relatively simple but flavorful dish. It’s the most irresistible stew I personally have ever had.
While Tavuk Şote itself is a more modern dish, its origins are rooted in the Ottoman Empire’s culinary traditions, where sautéing and the use of poultry were prevalent. And it’s this long standing history that I believe makes this dish as perfect as it is. The chicken is expertly cooked: juicy and tender, with a lightly browned exterior from the sauté process. It absorbs the seasonings and takes on a savory, slightly smoky quality from the cooking method. The vegetables are softened yet retain a slight bite for texture. The onions add a touch of sweetness, while the tomatoes provide a slight acidity that balances the richness of the chicken and spices. The potatoes calm everything out.
Then there’s the sauce everything is stewing in. Created by tomato juices, chicken juices, and oil, it is light but flavorful, coating each piece of chicken and vegetable. It’s not overly thick but has enough consistency to cling to the ingredients, making each bite saucy and satisfying. The result is a balanced, savory, and slightly tangy flavor profile, with layers of warmth from the spices and a satisfying mix of textures from the vegetables and chicken. It’s a comforting and flavorful dish, embodying the simplicity and depth of Turkish home cooking.
All served with that ever-present bread that is at every table in Turkey. (Did you know Turkey consumes the most bread of any country?). Light enough to enjoy 3-4 slices and soak up all that good sauce and marinade.
Best of all, it’s easy to make, so even I could make it at home! Turkey’s culinary diversity has led to regional versions of sautéed chicken dishes. For instance, in southern Turkey, Tavuk Şote might include more spicy elements like hot peppers, reflecting the region’s bolder flavors. I’ll be trying this one next.
This dish makes up for the salad and really makes me wonder how I ever considered ordering it. Everyone knows holiday calories don’t count anyways!
One last note. While this is a tourist area, tourist prices seen are absolutely out of control. In Miami a quick salad at SweetGreen will run you less than the salad at Rose Papillon. Just 3 years ago on a visit I recall how generous Turkish portions were with fair pricing and delicious meals. At 590 lira, or $17, for the salad and $20 for the small chicken portion, the country is a different place than 3 years ago.
At least, the gorgeous view never changes.
