Before we embark on the new journey of Miami Eats, it’s time for rest and relaxation from the stress of moving (and, well, everything else). What better way to enjoy some time off than a vacation to Portugal? Forever a Cristiano Ronaldo fan, but never with the opportunity to explore the country, culture, and food, I decided it was about time to make the trip. Over the course of the next few weeks, we will explore the delights of Lisboa, Porto, and a couple of stops in between.
Starting with the very first meal right upon landing. While Port wine and Ginginja may be the best-known drinks from the area, a restaurant named Gin Lover’s is serving some of the best gin cocktails, in the most beautiful atmosphere, and was night 1’s dinner reservation.
Located in the Philipe Real district, the building the restaurant is in EmbaiXada is a neo-Moorish palace from the 1800s repurposed with restaurants, outdoor bars, and some boutique shops. We were happy to arrive a bit before our reservation and enjoy an Espresso Martini for a wake-up call, and walk the shops. You not only admire sustainable clothing, beautiful jewelry, and the smells of the cooking happening throughout the space, you also enjoy some of the ornate architecture, columns, artwork, and chandeliers that have been preserved to keep EmbaiXada as beautiful as it was centuries ago.
Gin Lover’s is located on the ground floor, right in the middle of the grand staircase, so depending on if the shops are open, it feels like you are almost in an open courtyard. However, this is no mall courtyard. Velvet chaises and modern tables in the intimate atmosphere make you feel as fancy as the rest of the palace. Once sat, we of course ordered our gin cocktails (which were absolutely delicious by the way) and by just coming to the restaurant, we came to the conclusion this was going to be an amazing trip.
While research showed beefanas and charcuterie were popular appetizers in Lisbon, this menu had some more interesting offerings we could not pass up on trying. Starting with the Pica-Pau de Secretos- pork belly, garlic, parsley, lime and brandy. While I stay away from pork in any form, I didn’t want to hold back the rest of the party back. Served with marinated and sautéed tomatoes and artichoke on top, I thoroughly enjoyed using the bread to scoop up all of the delicious oils and seasonings with them from the plate. I did try one of the pork belly strips and as expected, did not enjoy it. My partner seemed more than happy that this was the case as the rest got to be for him. A sure sign that if you enjoy pork, this is likely an appetizer you would like. Even how it looks on the plate in the above left makes my mouth water.
But for me, something green, fried, and served with a dip- the Peixinho da Horta “Espargos,” or asparagus tempura, with parsley mayo. I love an innovative take on a dish. While breading in tempura and frying is not necessarily the most ground-breaking way to serve asparagus, it came across that way in presentation and with the parsley mayo, plus garnish. This would be the first of many times eating mayo on this trip. A food I avoid and normally despised grew to be a food I tolerate and can get behind with these types of remixes. Not overly breaded, only slightly fried, I felt no guilt having the only greens I would have for the next couple of days this way. Light, divine, and perfect for crunching alongside a gin cocktail.
For our mains, being in a country along the sea, fish was called for. Quite a lot on this trip, as you will see. To start, the Sea bass with lemon, thyme, and garlic sauce served alongside linguini pasta with a coriander pesto.
When it comes to seafood, Portugal really does not mess around. From canned sardines on every corner to cod in any format you can imagine, there’s something for everyone. A local favorite, the Sea Bass, is a maritime masterpiece,. Flaky and tender, with a hint of that ocean breeze, this filet of fish was very well made. What really sets this dish apart is the zesty lemon, the aromatic thyme, and the pungent garlic that give a hint of flavor to the fish without being overly heavy. They work well together while keeping the fish as the star of the show and letting its natural flavor come through.
I rarely have fish with pasta so was pleasantly surprised to see how this was served. The coriander pesto adds a fresh, herbaceous kick which the linguini soaks up so well. Add these notes to the zesty and freshness of the fish and you have a well thought-out plate of tastes, textures, and flavors.
Finally, what I did not know at the time would be the food I was going to eat more than every other time in my life combined, the Cod Fish with cornbread crumbs, potatoes, and salad. Codfish has been a staple in Portugal for centuries, dating back to the Age of Exploration when it was salted and preserved for long sea voyages. The tradition lives on, and dishes like this one pay homage to Portugal’s seafaring past.
The codfish arrives with a perfectly crispy exterior, courtesy of those cornbread crumbs (which to be honest, were the reason I ordered the dish). As soon as you cut in though you know this is a perfectly tender and flaky preparation of cod. I love the contrast between the crispy coating and the moist fish within. Certainly nowhere near fish fry levels, this is exactly how a fish with some texture should be prepared. Add a sweet touch from the cornbread and you really can’t imagine a better version of a piece of Cod Fish.
Not to be overlooked, the potatoes were that small fingerling style, baked to a crisp on the outside and fluffy, clouds on the inside. This would be the first of many times that potatoes were enjoyed as a side in Portugal. More popular than fries and far healthier, I was very happy to have the alternative.
With amazing service, stunning ambiance, and an expert take on cocktails- Gin Lover’s is the perfect place for dinner, drinks with the girls, or to kick off a more romantic Portugal trip in the most perfect way.
