Like the ladybug (which Bubamara translates to), finding this treasure of a restaurant in Clifton, NJ was Lady Luck on our side. Cafe Bubamara is a “curated and cultivated atmosphere that invites you to indulge in its whimsical and relaxed atmosphere, reminiscent of the glory days of Ex-Yugoslavia.”
As someone who was born there, this is music to my ears. The foods of the Balkans are some of the best in the world. While perhaps not universally known, I have yet to come across someone who tries burek or cevapi and does not crave them forever more. I would love to see these traditional cuisines spread throughout the US and become more popular. Especially if they are as authentically and deliciously made as the ones at Cafe Bubamara.
The menu is extensive. There are several pages and sections made to appeal to everyone, from the most traditional Balkans to those just looking to dabble in trying something new. From Uštipci to Balkan Burgers with Kajmak, all of my favorites were on the menu. There’s plenty of offerings of more Western fare with a Balkan twist, like omelettes, paninis, and chicken served up in several ways. I know the meats, cheeses, and spreads like ajvar make the twist on these classics significantly tastier, but we had to stick to an all-Balkan table. Starting with a burek and cevapi.
Cevapi are a type of skinless sausage or kebab, made from minced meat, typically a mixture of beef and lamb, various herbs and spices, shaped into small, finger-like pieces. This description does not do them justice. Served in lepinja (grilled bread) with a side of onions, and dipped in ajvar (a roasted red pepper spread), they are absolutely delicious. A typical Balkan kitchen will make them from scratch but they’ve become so popular, many stores sell them frozen. They’ve also become a popular street food in many cities and towns across Europe.
Grilled over an open flame, there is a wonderful smokiness to cevapi and moistness that keeps the meat very tender. Herbs balance the meat and smokiness and help create a flavor that is so distinct, you won’t want to compare them to kebabs ever again. For meat-lovers, this is a must try dish. It may look unremarkable, but this is a taste with depth way beyond the visual. Add onions, spread, and a grilled piece of lepinja, and you have one of the most beloved dishes of the region, for good reason. Just look at Bailey’s loving eyes above.
Equally holding the number one spot in ex-Yugoslavian cuisine is pita, or burek. Cafe Bubamara all of the traditional types: potato, spinach and cheese, cheese, and meat. Only one caught my eye because I had never seen it before. The Pečurke – mushroom burek. I figured, I love mushrooms, it sounds good enough, and we all know if the dough is right, it’s hard not to be delicious.
I am glad I tried it, I really liked it. Like other types of burek, Pečurke burek showcases the wonderful combination of crispy layers of homemade dough (must not be phyllo) and a flavorful mushroom filling, making it a delightful variation. If you can get the dough right, you can really fill with anything I am sure, even though I prefer the traditional ones. The mushroom variation falls right below in terms of rank, but I can see how someone new to burek would like this just as much. The mushrooms are sautéed with onions, I believe, and fill the familiar dough. The taste is still centered around the combination of the filling and dough, so not too earthy or overpowering with the mushrooms. What I like a bit less is the texture with this variation, mushrooms being a bit more wet than a potato or meat filling, but the taste is there.
We ordered a second spinach and cheese one for good measure. While not pictured, I can confirm that Cafe Bubamara makes burek the authentic, homemade, “domaci” way that’s described. Rarely will I like a burek like the ones made at home or in Sarajevo-center (or at Mina’s). These all compare- 10/10.
I am all too familiar with burek and cevapi and wanted my own venture in the Balkan Kitchen. While the ingredients were not new, the term Đevrek I had never heard before. Beef prosciutto, beef pepperoni, mushroom, and mozzarella cheese baked into a homemade dough that resembles a pretzel in aesthetic but tasted more like kifle. Served with sour cream for dipping, this is like a calzone and panini shaped into a wam, soul-filling circle.
Beef prosciutto and pepperoni refers to cured and dried beef products that add a rich, savory, and slightly smoky flavor to the dish. Known as names like “sujuk” in the Balkans, these meats combine bold, savory, and spicy flavors. Beef prosciutto is typically thinly sliced and air-dried, similar to traditional pork prosciutto. Beef pepperoni adds a touch of spiciness and complements the other ingredients. Various herbs and spices like cumin, coriander, and red pepper flakes contribute depth and complexity to the taste. With a subtle smoky undertone that spreads throughout the rest of the dish when baked together, it is the strongest flavor of all of the ingredients.
Then there’s a generous amount of melty mozzarella cheese, so that each bite has it pulling apart from the rest, and earthy sautéed mushrooms all coming together in a well-balanced dish that offers a blend of smokiness, richness, and creaminess. The dough, just like the burek, was so authentic and homemade, that I wanted to kiss the chef. This is what breads should taste like, whether rolled and baked or sliced for building on. Fluffy on the inside and crispy on the outside, it was made for filling. I absolutely loved this first try of Đevrek and can see myself trying a different variation next time I see it on a menu. It’s a unique fusion of ingredients that is still comforting and delicious for those that appreciate familiar flavors made bold.
Then, there is the first dessert menu, and another with more traditional offerings. There simply was not any room left at the moment, but that doesn’t mean we wouldn’t work up an appetite making our way home to the city. While I really wanted the Domaća Štrudla sa Višnjama (cherry strudel), we had to limit ourselves to just 3 cakes: the Ferrero Rocher, Voćna torta (fruit), and Španski vjetar (Spanish wind).
Starting at the bottom and moving clockwise: Walnuts, Nutella, and mascarpone cheese- what could go wrong? Well, labeling this cake Ferrero Rocher to an audience that expects a rich chocolate taste is the answer. While this cake tastes good enough, it is very faint in flavor and does not do the sophisticated Italian dessert justice. If you are looking for something that is not too sweet and has notes of cocoa and hazelnut, this is a light piece of cake to enjoy. For me, it left me wanting more.
Moving on to the Vocna (fruit) cake. Not like your usual Christmas fruit cake that you look to avoid at all costs, this is a fresh and vibrant variation, the way the cake should be done. Full of strawberries, raspberry, and blueberry, made with a walnut core and laced in raspberry and whipped cream, this slice was much more appreciated. Still light enough to have a whole slice to yourself, but exactly as described, it took me right back to downtown Sarajevo, covered in dessert shoppes full of fruit tortes.
And finally, Španski vjetar features distinct layers of egg white, chocolate cream, vanilla cream, and chopped hazelnut. This would not be my choice when looking at a menu because I have had it so many times, but I understand why the description is appealing.
I cannot stress enough how worth your time a visit to Cafe Bubamara is if you are in the Clifton, New Jersey area. Driving from upstate we went out of our way and I would do so again and again. Trying this food is a must for those who haven’t. For those who know it well, experiencing it made available to the public in such a delicious way warms your heart. Just look at Bailey whose eyes say it all, “give me more, now.”
P.S. For those looking to make their own in a traditional way, that can speak Bosnian or Serbo-Croatian, all of Mina’s are amazing. The best there ever was, here.
