We ended 2024 with a delicious Turkey restaurant review and we’re starting 2025 with another. If we were to have a non-traditional Turkish meal in Istanbul, it meant we had to have somewhere with a view. Somewhere with at least a bit of a story and an ambiance. And of course, delicious food. The Barnathan Garden was this place for one weeknight dinner on our most recent trip to Turkey.
According to the website, “Barnathan Apartment was built by the Barnathan family, who immigrated to the Ottoman Empire from Spain in 1492. The Barnathan Apartment Building is an example of Neo-classical architecture, with influences from ancient Greece and Rome.” To summarize, it is gorgeous. A beautiful hotel with classic fixtures and decor to match its rich history.
Walk through to the inside seating area, and you’ll absorb the charm of the hotel and the intimate vibes of the indoor “garden.” We were there on a colder November night, so started with a homey appetizer to match the entire mood: the Stuffed Mushrooms.
When it comes to starters, it’s easy to fall into the trap of ordering what feels predictable. But every once in a while, such a dish surprises you, and this did just that for me.
The mushrooms are filled and then topped with Kashar cheese, a Turkish staple known for its mild, nutty flavor and excellent melting properties. The cheese, golden and bubbling, overflows to cover the mushroom caps, so you can’t even see them.
These don’t just look inviting; they back it up being equally tasty. Nutty, tender mushroom gives way to the creamy richness of Kashar, while the slight acidity of the sauce cuts through the richness, keeping the flavors balanced. The combination works so well because the cheese enhances the mushrooms’ natural flavors without overpowering them. These elements create a layered flavor experience: earthy, creamy, tangy, and slightly sweet.
There’s an element of nostalgia to the starter—it feels like comfort food but with a distinctly Turkish touch. Ask for some extra table bread for the sauce they’re sitting in and you’re off to a great start!
Next course: the Quinoa Salmon Salad.
When a salad can hold its own among the standout dishes of an acclaimed restaurant, you know it’s something special. Marinated salmon skewers top a vibrant bed of greens, arugula, caper, pepper, radishes, carrot, onion, avocados, and a House Dream Sauce as a dressing. Without hesitation, I can say it’s one of the best salads I’ve ever had.
The centerpiece of the dish is the marinated salmon, skewered and cooked to perfection. The fish is tender and flaky, with a subtle smokiness that hints at its marinade—perhaps a blend of citrus and spices. Slide it off and mix it into the greens and arugula, their peppery notes providing the perfect contrast to the richness of the fish.
Within the salad itself, the medley of ingredients feels both thoughtful and indulgent. Kapya peppers, known for their sweet, mild heat, add a burst of color and a delightful sweetness. Then there are the caper flowers, a rare and delicate touch that gives a hint of Mediterranean flair. Avocado and quinoa round out the dish, adding creaminess and a hearty texture, while thinly sliced radishes, carrots, onions, and radishes bring crunch and freshness. It’s all brought together by the House Dream Sauce—a dressing that feels almost magical in its balance of tangy, savory, and slightly sweet flavors. Whether it’s a hint of honey, citrus, or some secret spice, the sauce complements every element of the salad. I really wish I knew so I could replicate the sauce (and the entire salad) at home.
This is the type of dish that makes you say “if I could have this every day, I would eat nothing but salad every day.” I couldn’t recommend it more. A reminder that sometimes, the most impressive dishes are the ones that surprise you with their simplicity done exceptionally well.
And finally, the main, Grilled Seabass with Teriyaki Sauce.
The dish features a delicately grilled seabass, complemented by a sautéed oyster mushroom sauce and accompanied by baby potatoes.
This was unfortunately my least favorite dish we ordered. The menu is extensive for the mains, featuring everything from pasta and pizzas to burgers and, most randomly, a quesadilla section. It’s these menus in tourist-heavy cities that make me skeptical of the quality of the food you’re going to get. For a kitchen to keep up with so many, it would need to be a massive operation, something I don’t see happening for the quaint Barnathan hotel.
That said, it wasn’t as bad as I would normally expect. The seabass was cooked quite well. What I expected to be a sweet-savory teriyaki glaze was something between a sauce and glaze consistency, which I actually referred. This allowed those flavors to spread more and gave each bite that tangy, earthy depth. The baby potatoes were tender and well-seasoned, rounding out the plate with a comforting starch.
However, the portion size is notably small, which can be disappointing, especially considering the dish’s price point. While the execution is better than the tourist traps of biblical-size menus, the dish as a choice is passable.
Although the extensive menu shouldn’t be a surprise. The beginning of it highlights “Ancient Greece, Rome, Byzantine, Sephardic Jews, Armenians, Levantines, Circassians, Georgians, Pontians, Cappadocians, Albanians, Russians…” tradition fills the space and plates. That with the gorgeous views you can take advantage of and you in the end have a worthy restaurant to venture away from traditional local cuisines (although don’t worry, that’s on the menu too).
