Well, always is overkill, but asking to speak to the chef at a family birthday dinner at Kitchen Step in Jersey City was a highlight of the night. Executive Chef Ryan Depersio is “recognized as one of New Jersey’s most talented and respected chefs, executive chef Ryan DePersio brings a wealth of epicurean knowledge and award-winning experience to all of his kitchens.” Not only was he beyond friendly, he was willing to answer all of my obscure questions about his favorite foods and even gave some hot tips of restaurants to check out in the area. Will do. But first, to get to the meal at his first place, Kitchen Step.
First, the above main photo. French Onion Mac and Cheese- talk about a fusion of classic flavors. As someone who loves to experiment with food, I am always on the lookout for unique dishes that tantalize my taste buds. This combo brings together the best of comfort foods and creates a new, interesting flavor that is both satisfying and delightful.
The dish starts with a base of tender macaroni noodles, cooked to perfection and coated in a creamy cheese sauce. Starting out with mac and cheese, all good, but then the French Onion Soup spices and flavors hit you. I think the real magic of this dish comes from the addition of caramelized onions that add a sweet and savory note. These onions are slowly cooked until they are soft, sweet, and golden brown. They are then mixed into the macaroni, adding a layer of depth and flavor solidifying the soup combo. Top it all off with port rosemary breadcrumbs to crack into and reveal the noodles and you have a dish that is both familiar and new. Since our meal in mid-January, I hear recipes of the dish are trending on TikTok, so you know it’s good if the kids are loving it.
The rotating featured menu almost escaped my attention. The gnocci on the main menu was almost ordered until we saw the Braised Rib Pappardelle. If the French Onion Mac and Cheese was the comfort dish, this can be labeled the hearty dish. Pappardelle is the pasta that has quickly become my favorite and this only furthered that.
Pappardelle is a wide, flat noodle that is similar in shape to fettuccine, but thicker. The noodle itself is made from a simple mixture of flour, eggs, and salt, and has a distinct, chewy texture that sets it apart from other types of pasta. The thickness of the noodle makes it perfect for soaking up sauces, and the wide surface area provides ample space for the sauce to cling to the noodle.
What really sets Pappardelle apart from other pastas is its versatility. It is a type of pasta that can be paired with a wide variety of sauces, from hearty meat sauces to light, creamy sauces. It is also a type of pasta that can be dressed up or dressed down, making it perfect for both casual and formal dining. Here it is dressed up with the most delicious of mixture of meat and tomatoes. Seasoned so perfectly and all of those good flavors soaked up by the noodles, I think I may have licked this plate clean. Only second to the pappardelle at Byron Bay.
If you have a comfort dish, and a hearty dish, you’ve got to have a somewhat healthy dish. Anyways, it is impossible for me to not order salmon when I see it on the menu. Perhaps because I know it is full of goodness for you, or perhaps it is because I rarely purchase it to make at home. Whatever the reason, of course, the Scottish Salmon with bok choy, forbidden black rice, and yellow pepper-cashew romesco sounded too good to pass up. I mean, forbidden rice?!
The Scottish Salmon was the star of the dish. Flaky and tender, with a delicate flavor enhanced by the light seasoning. Nothing ruins a great piece of fish like over seasoning, the fish just needs to be well prepared and slide right on to the fork. Adding a bit of a crisp, the bok choy was lightly sautéed and still had a slight crunch, making it a perfect complement to the tender salmon. While I thought it was awkward to serve on top, to each their own.
Next, we have the forbidden black rice. This type of rice has a distinct nutty flavor and a chewy texture, different from the non-forbidden (?) white rice. It was also a visually stunning addition, with its rich black color that contrasted perfectly with the white salmon and bright green bok choy.
Then, rounding out the base, there was the yellow pepper-cashew romesco. Romesco is a traditional Spanish sauce made from roasted red peppers, almonds, breadcrumbs, olive oil, garlic, and vinegar. It is a versatile sauce that is typically used as a dip or condiment, but can also be used as a sauce for fish, meats, and vegetables. I believe this yellow pepper-cashew romesco is a variation of the traditional sauce, made with yellow peppers and cashews instead of red peppers and almonds. Either way, it adds a rich, nutty flavor and a touch of heat to the dish, another little layer of complexity. A must order for fish lovers.
We dined outside in those huts that have become post-pandemic staples in the city but if you are comfortable doing so, take a seat inside. Taking only a peek, I could see it was a vibe! From stunning wallpaper to chairs fit for a king to Schitt’s Creek and Queen Elizabeth pillows, the whole place made me smile. As did leaving with a happy, comforted belly.
