All trips must come to an end, and two weeks in Portugal ended faster than I wanted. One final meal to round out the experience needed to have the most perfect view to take in some final Portuguese cuisine. After another day walking winding roads, Ribeira’s streets lining the water offered plenty of options to take in our last sunset. We chose Ribeira’s Restaurante Bar, with a table along the thin sidewalk that looks out onto the riverfront and iconic Luís I Bridge.
What better way to start than a crisp bottle of white wine and the Tábua Mista, or mixed board. Two types of cheese, meat, and a basket of bread to slowly nibble and sip on. I’ll state it upfront, this was my favorite part of the meal. Delightful and tangy cheese, local meats, all tasty and mixing with the swish of the wine. I love this vibe generally speaking, and being in Europe just takes it to another level.
While I could make a meal of bread and cheese, we decided one last try at the traditional seafood was necessary on the last night, even though we had mixed experiences leading up to this meal. Starting off with the Polvo “à Lagareiro,” or Octopus with small potatoes on the side. Lagareiro refers to a few varieties of cooking styles, but it usually ends in dressing grilled or roasted seafood with extra virgin olive oil. In this case, Octopus is cooked in olive oil and garlic and served whole.
While I thought Octopus Salad in Sintra was going to be my last go at Octopus, my partner was craving to make the octopus the star of the show. And the star it was. Take a look at that tentacle, covered in garlic bits, taking center stage. I’d venture to say this is too much Octopus, unless you’re a big lover of the protein and can’t get enough. Otherwise, portion wise, I would prefer to see about half and the plate filled with something else instead.
The taste is traditional and exactly as I expect for this creature . The octopus is tender and cooked to achieve a crispy exterior while remaining soft inside. I will say there is a lovely crispy exterior while remaining melt-in-your-mouth soft inside. It’s flavored with the olive oil and aromatic from the roasted garlic. Too much for me, but just right for someone with a craving. I did love the potatoes and side spinach. Nothing too special in terms of preparation but just enjoyable with a pure taste.
My dish of choice was the Salmão Grelhado, or grilled salmon. I wasn’t interested in any more sardines, but couldn’t resist being so close to the sea and not diving into something that would be fresh and light.
I would have been fine had I not been offered a variation of the salmon that was the waiter’s preference. No idea what it translated to I figured, sure why not! It’s probably more authentic, I thought. I’m still not sure whether it was or not, but it was slathered in a thick layer of mayonnaise. One of my least favorite foods/ingredients. It reminded me of the salad in Coimbra that almost ruined all salads for me. Broiled on top, the salmon had a nice warmth and was a beautiful dish but the taste was ruined for me. I picked around with the salmon, but the mayo flavor sunk through.
Again, the potatoes came to the rescue. This time whipped and with a secret ingredient- nutmeg! The first time I have ever had potatoes this way, they were absolutely delicious. Flamed on top for a crisp, the smokiness and sweetness with the mashed potatoes almost made up for the wrongdoing to the fish. Being back now on the top of my to-do list is to try to recreate potatoes with nutmeg, and if you don’t have the opportunity to try this variation in Portugal, I suggest you try too!
Regardless of the hits and misses in the meal, the previously mentioned view above made this experience a 10/10. The colors of the rooftops across the water in Gaia, with the design of the Luis Bridge, and the best of people watching make it the cherry on top of the perfect end to the trip.
